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Monday, 23 November 2009 07:36 UAE time

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Back to the future for Japan

by ArabianBusiness.com staff writer  on Saturday, 01 September 2007
A selection of maki sushi at Tokyo@theTowers.

And while Starbucks now owns more than 600 branches in Japan, UniCafé Inc., a Japanese coffee producer, has recently established a joint venture with Mitsubishi Corp. and plans to create a franchise network with 100 coffee shops in China by 2010.

Horse sushi anyone?

But the picture is not all rosy.

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Many Japanese fast-food retailers are responding to the increasing competition at home by looking towards Asia for expansion possibilities.

One worrying trend for the Japanese catering industry is the increasing shortages of some types of fish. While restaurants outside Japan have little trouble sourcing high-quality ingredients, inside Japan, where the volume of fish eaten is huge, it is a different matter.

Broiled eel is a summer favorite dish in Japan. But following a decision by the European Union to slash eel exports, Japanese consumers are facing a shortage of eel this summer. Japanese waters provide about 20% of the 100,000 tons consumed annually, but catches have declined dramatically-to around 1 percent of 1970 levels. European eel stocks have also decreased to the point where the European Union is considering a permanent restriction in the eel trade.

Bluefin tuna, the king of Japanese fish, is also facing severe shortages. Last year, dozens of nations agreed to reduce annual tuna catches in the eastern Atlantic and Mediterranean by 20 percent in an attempt to stabilise fast-declining fish populations brought on by decade of overfishing. At the same time, world-wide demand for top-grade sushi has shot up. Experts say the shortages will only become more severe as populations of the slow-growing bluefin will fail to keep up with demand.

In the last year, the average price of imported bluefin in Japan has risen by more than a third. The Japanese consume three-quarters of the world's annual tuna catch and shortages are even having an effect on national self-esteem. The shortages have also led Japan's chefs to get a bit, well, creative with red coloured substitutes such as horse meat and roe deer.

Japanese fisheries research centres, heavily subsidised by local governments, have spent millions of dollars on advanced breeding programs for bluefin. Begun in 1970, the tuna in the program bore eggs for the first time in 2006, but commercial production is still several years away. Many Japanese conservationists are now saying that it is time for the Japanese people to heed the new realities of ecosystem degradation and begin changing their eating habits to focus more on foods that are not in danger.

This will not be easy, however.

The Japanese are fiercely proud of their food traditions, and Japan is the world's largest net food importer. The government subsidises an uncompetitive domestic food production industry with some of the world's highest import tariffs (including a whopping 778% rice tariff).

The growing popularity of Japanese foods worldwide has stimulated the government into launching a major food-export drive, but given the cost of traditional Japanese agricultural exports, such as rice, Japanese food and food products will continue to be high-end for a long time to come.

Types of sushi

The common denominator in sushi is the rice (shari). Variety comes from using different fillings and toppings, and different ways of putting the ingredients together.

Nigiri-zushi (hand-formed sushi). This is the most common type of sushi. It consists of an oblong mound of sushi rice pressed between the palms of the hands, with a speck of wasabi and a thin slice of fish or other topping (neta) draped over it.

Gunkan-maki (warship roll). A type of nigiri-zushi, the rice is formed into an oval, and wrapped up with a strip of nori to form a "boat" that is filled with soft toppings such as roe, quail egg, or even guacamole.

Makizushi (rolled sushi). A cylinder of rice, formed using a bamboo mat and wrapped in nori. There are many types of makizushi available:

Futomaki (fat rolls). A large cylinder with nori on the outside and three or four types of filling on the inside.

Hosomaki (thin rolls). A small cylinder, with the nori found on the outside and one filling placed inside the roll.

Kappamaki Hosomaki that is filled with cucumber, this roll is used as a palette cleanser between courses. It is named after a legendary Japanese water imp, called the kappa, who is believed to have been fond of cucumbers.

Tekkamaki Hosomaki filled with raw tuna; it originated as a quick snack to eat in gambling dens.

Uramaki (inside-out rolls). In this roll, the filling is in the center surrounded by nori, then a layered of rice, and an outer coating of some other ingredients such as roe or toasted sesame seeds. This is most common in America, where a huge variety of regional uramaki have been created to appeal to American palettes. These include, caterpillar roll (avocado, unagi and carrot), dynamite roll (tempura, spicy mayonnaise and vegetables), and godzilla roll (yellowtail tempura, spicy teriyaki sauce, and green onions).

Temaki (hand rolls). A large, cone-shaped piece of nori filled with ingredients which spill out of the wide end.

Inari-zushi (stuffed sushi). A pouch of fried tofu filled with sushi rice. Named after the Shinto god Inari, who has a fondness for fried tofu.

Saikuzushi (festival sushi) A decorative kind of norimaki, prepared for special occasions. Rice is tinted different colors, sectioned off with seaweed, and then rolled. When it is sliced, complex images of cranes, flowers, or landscapes appear like edible cloisonnés.

Oshizushi Sushi rice pressed into a mold with marinated or boiled fish on top. It is removed from the mold and cut into sections when it is served.

Chirashizushi (scattered sushi) Sushi rice spread in a box or a bowl with nine kinds of fish and vegetables scattered on top or mixed into the rice, and nine steps in preparation. (Nine is considered a lucky number.)

Chakinzushi Sushi rice in a thin omelet wrapper, shaped and tied like a drawstring purse.

Fukusazushi Sushi rice folded in a thin sheet of omelet. Fukusa means "silk scarf," and this sushi is named after the traditional fabric squares knotted around gifts or special belongings in Japan.

Battera matsumae Made from the covering of the bamboo shoot layered with seaweed, a block of sushi rice, and a fillet of marinated mackerel. A silken, transparent, green seaweed is draped over the top, and the bamboo is folded around everything and tied with knotted strips of leaf.


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