Hidden paradise
by This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it on Monday, 21 January 2008
Sri Lanka is synonymous with tragedy. A tiny island that dangles off the south coast of India, it has been plagued by civil war for the past 25 years. Despite a ceasefire being signed between the government and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) rebels in 2002, fighting there continues to this day.
Throw into the mix the Boxing Day tsunami of 2004 which wreaked devastation and destruction on the eastern and southern coasts leaving more than 30,000 dead, and it's easy to understand why the country attracts more foreign aid workers than tourists.
But, while the media may focus on the fracas and fighting, there is so much more to Sri Lanka than civil war and the legacy of the tsunami. The country's very name is derived from Sanskrit - the classic language of India - and means ‘resplendent isle' which couldn't be more apt.
So long as you exercise some common sense and avoid the northern and eastern trouble spots where frequent clashes do occur (which Sinhalese Sri Lankans are quick to warn you about), visitors can expect palm fringed pristine beaches, treasured temples, verdant vegetation, brightly coloured saris, school children in crisp white shirts, happy herds of elephants, and a welcome as warm as the weather. The weather is another of Sri Lanka's many attractions.
The heat is balmy not blistering - in short perfect weather to enjoy the sun without being uncomfortably hot or suffering heat stroke. Sri Lanka is blissfully affordable, boasts stunning natural scenery and delectable cuisine. Little wonder, then that Marco Polo referred to Lanka (as it's known to locals) as "the finest island of its size".
The entry point to Sri Lanka is its capital, and the country's commercial hub, Colombo. If you want to escape the hurried pace of urban life then head south where a string of beautiful beaches await. You could take the easy option, hop in a taxi (taxis in this part of the world are almost invariably a bargain) and drive straight to your pocket of paradise. An even cheaper alternative is to take the train. Sri Lanka has a system which London or New York commuters dream of - it's cheap and on time. A train journey is one of the defining experiences of Sri Lanka being rich in local colour and providing points of contact with local people.
Sri Lanka has a thriving local gastronomic scene; indeed eating Sri Lankan style is one of life's pleasures. And if you find the food to be hotter than the weather, just reach for some rice or yoghurt.
A delectable breakfast of pittu (rice mixed with grated coconut and then steamed in a bamboo mould) and hoppers (bowl shaped pancakes sometimes served with an egg in the middle and always accompanied by the condiment sambol), is followed by a hearty lunch of rice and curry; the national dish. Curries are made with banana, eggplant, okra, pumpkin, plantain...the list is endless. Literally every ingredient that is grown in Sri Lanka will appear in a curry. Want a sugar hit? Wattalapam (a rich pudding made of coconut milk, jaggery, cashew nuts, eggs and spices) is where it's at. Meanwhile afternoons are all about a long leisurely cup of Ceylon tea.
If you're a fan of fruits, you've come to the right place. Topical fruits such as succulent pineapples, small, sweet bananas, guava, mangoes, papaya and passionfruit to name but a few are abundant. Western fare is available, but the local delights are too tasty to pass up. However a word of warning; preparation takes some time (often up to three hours) so order early and for breakfast it's best to get your request in the night before.
READERS' COMMENTS
Posted by Gunasekera on Sunday 27 January 2008 at 09:46 UAE time
Good article, the only thing incorrect is flying time to Sri Lanka, which is 4 1/2 hours, direct from Dubai to Colombo.
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