Restaurant review: Ewaan

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If Dubai had its own Muscle Beach, the city's bodybuilders would hang out at Ewaan. After a hard day of pumping iron and slapping on baby oil, the leotard-clad masses would be found sitting at the base of the unfeasibly tall Burj Dubai and craning their necks directly skyward - in the process giving their scapulae (neck muscles) a serious workout, more effective than that on offer in any gym.

Those with mullet haircuts would have to lean forward every now and then to avoid their locks dragging on the floor, but such is the spectacle of the huge tower right next to you as you dine that you cannot help but look up at it, completely mesmerised.

Unfortunately it would appear that some of the staff can become just as distracted. We had a long delay after our arrival between being seated and waiting for our initial drink orders to be taken, after which we were guided to a table inside the deserted main restaurant rather than the outdoor area with its superb views. When we asked to be moved we were met with confused looks, and then left to move plates and cutlery ourselves. And with so many picturesque fountains and water features within the vicinity, staff distracted by the scale of the building could easily take a tumble; perhaps the Palace Hotel should employ lifeguards as a precaution.

The Palace Hotel (we wondered, is there a Hotel Palace somewhere?) is one of the first buildings to be completed in the Old Town area, and sits surrounded by building workers, sandbags and cement mixers. Yet this only helps to accentuate its regal features, its exterior a fusion of Arabian and medieval castle. Ewaan can be found within this sandy-coloured fortress, a short elevator ride down from the lobby. High ceilings and Arabian-style decoration abounds, and intimate, cushioned booths with curtains that can be pulled across for extra privacy can be found tucked away to the side.

As ever, with anything new, it takes time to build a reputation and for people to become aware of it - such is the case with The Old Town - and as a result, not many have discovered Ewaan yet - but expect that to change as people flock to see a completed Burj Dubai. What they will find when they arrive is a buffet with several live cooking stations along the back wall for warming up Arabic breads, making pasta, stir fries, carving a joint of beef and constructing crêpes for dessert. The Arabic influences extend mainly to a few Lebanese salads, although there is quite a large selection of seafood.

My dining partner and I picked plump juicy prawns from a display featuring a huge ice sculpture, and smothered them with pink thousand island dressing, surrounding them on our plates with salmon mousse, potato and bacon salad, and miniature dishes containing mussel salad, green pea purée and grilled haloumi cheese as golden as David Dickinson.

After two rounds of salad we decided to switch to the mains. The joint of roasted beef from the carvery was pink and tender, and the accompanying sautéed carrots and baby potatoes were packed full of flavour. Lamb hotpots were nicely presented in miniature oven dishes with a wholesome, bubbling broth. Similarly, the chicken dish on offer came partnered with a tangy tomato-laced sauce.

For dessert, there were even more miniature dishes in their own individual containers, such as crème brûlée, white chocolate mousse and profiteroles, although some of these were rather rich and could warrant only a mouthful. Best to stick with the miniature chocolate fountain, complete with dunkable marshmallows, fruits and Arabic sweets.

At Dhs180 per person, excluding drinks, the buffet seems reasonable, although not groundbreaking. The wine list is also reflective of the venue - you can scout around on the ground floor opting for a Dhs150 bottle, or scale the dizzy heights of the Burj Dubai with a Dhs5,000 Bordeaux red. In fact, it's the venue that really makes Ewaan, allowing you to sit beneath the shiny Burj exterior. Just don't spend too long looking skyward - if the wind changes you'll be forever looking at the stars.

The Palace, The Old Town (04 428 7888). All major credit cards accepted. Dinner buffet, Dhs180 per person, served 7pm-12 midnight.

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