Road to Damascus

The 2008 Capital of Arab Culture is fast emerging as the regional tourist hotspot of the year. Kaye Holland reports from the ancient city.

If you're tired of Dubai, are you tired of life? No, the chances are that it isn't the ‘city of gold' that's getting you down, but the tourists, crowded tourist coaches and tourist price hikes that are inevitable at this time of year.

All of which means that it's time for a change of scenery, and if you're looking for a weekend getaway without the people and perturbing prices, Damascus - only a short three-hour flight away - is your ticket to ride.

Blessed with biblical history (as Mark Twain once said: ‘Go back as far as you will in the vague past, there was always a Damascus'), this medieval UNESCO World Heritage listed beauty can't fail to charm even the most seasoned of travellers.

The Syrian capital boasts an embarrassment of riches; citadels, ruins, religious, architectural and archaeological sites and a labyrinth-like souq are all present and correct.

Damascus is also significantly richer in local colour than its Gulf counterparts, so visitors can expect to share the streets, restaurants and hammams with real, live courteous Syrians.

Easily one of the most magical cities in the Middle East (legend has it that when Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) first viewed the city, he refused to pass through the gates because, he said, man could enter paradise only once), the best time to visit is now.

Just keep in mind that one trip will never be enough and you'll find yourself returning again and again, for as French archaeologist Andre Parrot put it: "Every person has two homelands; his own and Syria.

Damascus' historical heart - the old city - should be top of any sightseeing agenda. Still ringed by its old Arab walls, the cobbled streets reveal an exotic patchwork of sights, flavours, smells and sounds.

The best way to get an initial take on the old area is to stroll along Straight Street which cuts through the Islamic, Jewish and Christian quarters.

Contrary to popular perception, Damascus isn't an Islamic state. The skyline is punctuated not only by domes and pencil slim minarets of mosques, but also by churches and synagogues and the three religions successfully mingle and collide.

Walking offers intimate glimpses into the lives of locals; expect to pass heavy opened shutters, underwear on washing lines and old men sitting on street corners playing chess while grandmothers gossip and chew the fat over endless cups of tea as they have done for centuries.

From Straight Street, most visitors head for the timeless souk which could keep one contented for days. Life happens in the souq and as such it's busy at all hours; Damascenes love to hang out.

The crowded passageways are a cacophony of donkeys, performers, shopkeepers and food sellers peddling sweets, salted nuts and every tongue-tingling spice under the sun. Furthermore it's all for the locals and not tourists - indeed English is most definitely a foreign language and Damascenes will use gestures and smiles to interact with you.

READERS' COMMENTS

MORE FROM ARABIANBUSINESS.COM