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On a high

by This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it  on Sunday, 16 November 2008

It took a journey far above ground for Madeleine Collins to discover the true beauty of Dubai.

It's easy to feel disillusioned when you first move to Dubai. And to still feel so, even six months later. When I first arrived, it was with visions of the multiple spectacular developments that I forgot are in fact artist's impressions of projects that will take some years to come to fruition.

What I did witness of course was endless roadworks and construction almost everywhere I looked, on a scale that I have never experienced. So where does one witness the splendour which makes Dubai truly unique in today's world?

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I recently found the answer. And it's really quite simple. Up in the air. When I arrive at Festival Marina, I am surrounded by construction, of course. Falcon Aviation Services is a simple set up. The office is a large portacabin on the edge of the marina which is currently being developed. Enormous mounds of rubble sit to the right, which I am informed, will be the site of the new Four Seasons Hotel.

It's 3pm and the sparkling waters of the marina look peaceful in contrast to the chaos around them. Huge rusty boats sit idly on the shore opposite and off in the distance, the Burj Al Arab, Wafi and Sheikh Zayad Road fade into the late afternoon haze.

I wonder how the visibility problems in Dubai will affect the view from the sky.

After being ushered into a room with a family of three for a safety briefing, I'm given a life jacket and taken outside to begin my journey. I really don't know what to expect. The only other helicopter ride I've taken was over Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and quite frankly, Dubai has a hard act to follow.

Our French-made helicopter has six passenger seats, two in the front next to our American pilot Elizabeth, and four in the back, all front facing. I snag a front seat with a 180 degree view through the enormous helicopter windows.

Once strapped into our seats, we each receive ear phones so we can hear Elizabeth's commentary and up we go.

The ascent is exhilarating. Dubai Creek meanders around the landscape below us and the green fields of the Park Hyatt Golf and Yacht Club look lush in contrast.

Over sprawling Port Rashid we go, where we spot Sheik Mohammed's 150 metre yacht in its berth, and onward across the vast shimmering ocean to The World.

The waters are now the most stunning azure blue, which I would never had predicted from the shore, and the view is breathtaking. It is truly one of those moments in which silence is required.

As we sweep across the multiple islands that are still all sand, bar one, The World is taking shape. Elizabeth points out the continents - Australia first, Asia to the right. She explains that the wall of sand that circles The World has a number of gaps that allow boats to enter, and also enables currents to wash through so that the private waters inside don't get stagnant. We pass over Africa and onto South America.

In all of my travels, the aqua colour of the ocean has rarely looked more beautiful. This is not what I expected at all. Below us sand pours out of a dredger to create a new island. We pass over the only developed island so far, which is owned by Sheik Mohammed. A huge white villa sits among rows of palm trees and a large swimming pool shimmers back at us.

A resort will one day be built upon the long stretch of sand that will become Coral Island, and even a golf course is planned, Elizabeth tells us as we pass over it. Amazing stuff to witness when you've only read such stories in the newspaper.

Elizabeth performs a 90 degree turn and we dip and head towards the Jumeriah Palm. To the right a layer of smog merges with the haze on the horizon as the sun begins to set. To be above it all feels magical.

Over Atlantis we go and suddenly the fronds of the Palm are spread out before us. Looking at the unique development from the ground I had been decidedly under whelmed due to the skyscrapers on the trunk, but from the skies, you get an entirely different view. Pools glisten blue and green gardens abound. The private beaches look pristine and the whole development looks utterly beautiful.

Next we follow the traffic north on Sheik Zayed Road, which is great fun. No traffic jams up here. We catch a brief glimpse of Jebel Ali Palm before turning back over Jumeirah Islands. I had never heard of them before but the Islands are a perfect example of what has been completed in Dubai. Huge white mansions curve around in circles to form giant daisies from the sky.

Next we traverse a large expanse of desert that reminds me of what once was. From the air, Dubai looks rather like a patchwork quilt, a mix and match of old and new, and the view from a helicopter provides a fascinating insight into what all those cranes really are transforming at breakneck speed.

We are still 1000 feet above ground as we pass the Burj Al Arab. One last treat as we head home is passing over Bird Sanctuary. Hundreds of pink flamingos cluster in pools in the idyllic wilds of the reserve.

Finally, we pass over Dubai Lagoon, a planned residential area, on our way back to Festival Marina.

As I disembark, I realise I have an entirely new perspective on Dubai. I suddenly feel excited to live in a city that is the epicentre of such unprecedented growth, and realise my feelings of disillusionment have faded into the horizon, along with the haze. www.alphatoursdubai.com

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