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Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève watch exhibition opened in DIFC today, 22 October. Shortlisted from more than 200 nominees, 69 watches are on display, vying for the top spot in 10 categories. Here we introduce 30 of the nominated watches and the winners of each category will be announced on November 15 in the Grand Theatre De Geneve.
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Grande Complication watch: A. Lange & Söhne, 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar:\nOf the 631 individual parts of the newly developed manufacture calibre L101.1, more than 200 components are part of the perpetual calendar mechanism. It not only knows the duration of all months in the course of a calendar year but also indicates all leap years until the year 2100.
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Grande Complication watch: Audemars Piguet,Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph: This year, in order to express the very best in watchmaking, the Manufacture in Le Brassus decided to develop a model equipped with complex mechanisms and clothed in a case inspired by that of a 1920s cushion-shaped pocket-watch belonging to its private museum. The result is the Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph, produced in two 10-piece limited editions.
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Grande Complication watch: Bulgari, Commedia Dell Arte: Grand complication and craftsmanship combine to give life to a creation inspired by Italy’s theatrical history of the 16th century, when gregarious masked “types” of characters performed a nomadic, outdoor form of improvisation. The three most famous and iconic characters of this tradition – Brighella, Pulcinella, and Harlequin – occupy the centre of the dial. When the cathedral gong Minute Repeater is activated, these three figures come alive against a highly sophisticated backdrop, a representation of an Italian palazzo.
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Ladies’ watch: Charriol, COLVMBVS: The COLVMBVS Lady Automatic (36mm) is offered in monochrome black and pure white, built with a generous, ‘macaroon’ style case in stainless steel. The hallmark of this statement timepiece is the effortlessly intricate interlocking triangular pattern around the case, which recalls the points of a compass rose. This signature detail is a tribute to the adventurer, Christopher Columbus, who inspired the collection name.
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Ladies’ watch: Chaumet, Liens De Chaumet Watch: Available in six versions, the flowing lines of its round case are enhanced by the strength of steel or the poetry of pink gold and, sometimes, a sparkle of diamonds. The “lien” motif seems to be in continuous movement as it draws its cross-over signature on the profile of the case and creates a link on each side of the dial with a leather or metal bracelet.
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Ladies’ watch: Chopard, Happy Sport Medium Automatic\nElegant, sophisticated and entirely loyal to the spirit of the original Happy Sport, the new Happy Sport Medium Automatic reveals a guilloché silver-toned dial, a tribute to the decorative traditions of classical watchmaking and a perfect backdrop against which to highlight the seven moving diamonds. On the back, a sapphire crystal provides a chance to admire its mechanical self-winding movement adorned with a straight Côtes de Genève motif.
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Ladies’ Complications watch: Boucheron, Epure Tourbillon Vitis:\nIn addition to its extraordinary vine leaf design, with its intricate web of veins, this timepiece continually amazes with its ability to achieve the impossible. The mother-of-pearl craftsmanship – the bunch of grapes is created from just one piece of mother-of-pearl sculpted into many tiny grapes. Above all, it is the engraved flying tourbillon that sets this timepiece apart from all the others in the ÉPURE D’Art line.
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Ladies’ Complications watch: BOVET 1822, Recital 9 Tourbillon Miss Alexandra:\nIn 2011, BOVET presented Récital 0 which, in its 41mm diameter version, was the first BOVET ladies’ watch powered by a movement equipped with a tourbillon. It was such a success that Pascal Raffy and his teams have chosen to broaden their range in 2013 by launching the Récital 9 Miss Alexandra Tourbillon.
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Ladies’ Complications watch: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée\nSix years after launching the Poetic Complication Féérie watch, Van Cleef & Arpels revisits the grace of the female form in 2013 with the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée timepiece. Half-dancer, half-butterfly, she perpetuates the tradition of ballerinas and fairies to which the Maison is so attached. It dates from the 1940s, when Van Cleef & Arpels developed a reputation for these playful yet graceful clips, which immediately began to draw the attention of collectors.
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Men’s watch: Baume & Mercier, Clifton 1830:\nThis new piece in 18K red gold, powered by a manually wound calibre by the manufacture, is the exemplary urban watch intended as the most authentic re-edition of the historical model that has inspired the entire Clifton collection.
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Men’s watch: H. Moser & Cie., Mayu H. Moser & Cie. presents the new Mayu Red Gold. For this classic gents’ model, with its timeless elegance and truly Germanic purity, the manufacture in Neuhausen chose to pair a 5N red gold case with a tone-on-tone vintage dial. Visible through the sapphire back, the HMC 321 movement is the beating heart of the beautiful Mayu, ensuring a power reserve of at least 72 hours with an indicator displayed on the movement side.
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Men’s watch: Maurice Lacroix SA, Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse: Calibre ML 215 and its automatic winding sytem can be observed through the sapphire case-back of the watch. Sun-blasted and diamond polished bridges, straight lines; grand colimaçon or grained finishing for the complication bridge. Last but not least, the Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse is available in two limited editions of 125 pieces each.
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Men’s Complications watch: De Bethune, DB28 Skybridge: While classically inspired in terms of its round shape, its 12 o’clock crown and its hunter-type back borrowed from pocket watches, the ultra-light mirror-polished titanium case of the DB28 with its distinctive floating lugs nonetheless proclaim the collection’s modern and indeed futuristic nature.
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Men’s Complications watch: Fonderie 47, Inversion Principle\nThis watch features a Central Three-Minute Flying Tourbillion, Instantaneous Jumping Hours with Quick-Set Pusher, 240° Retrograde Minutes, Lateral and Back Power Reserve Indicators. Inversion Principle is a completely original timepiece, designed by Adrian Glessing. Revenues from the sale of each timepiece will be used fund the destruction of one thousand assault weapons in Africa, creating a safer environment for aid and development.
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Men’s Complications watch: Greubel Forsey, Double Balanicer 35°\nA true first in Horology, The Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35° features two inclined fixed oscillators. This unique regulating system comprises two inclined oscillators and escapements. They are driven through a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates via the gear train to the time display.
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Innovation watch: Antoine Martin, Slow Runner\nInnovative watch manufacturer Antoine Martin has succeeded in bringing about a revolutionary reduction in balance frequency. The result is the first and only wristwatch in the world to operate at 7200 beats per hour, or just one hertz, with all the qualities of a fine precision timepiece.
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Innovation watch: Chopard, L.U.C Engine One H:\nAesthetic hybrid combining authentic automobile mechanics with fine watchmaking, the finishes on its Chopard Manufacture tourbillon movement evoke those typically appearing on engines, while its horizontal layout reflects the design of racing-car cockpits. Through aesthetics, functionality and performance, Chopard once again affirms its long-established and intimate relationship with the field of competitive motor sports.
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Innovation watch: Girard-Perregaux, Constant Escapement L.M.:\nThe watch uses of a 14 micron silicon buckled-blade, a strategic component 6 times thinner than a human hair. This blade acts as an energy micro storage unit that compensates for the variable energy of the barrel by giving constant impulses to the oscillator. Long power reserve and linear indicator is due to an innovative double twin barrel (patent pending), with a total length of 3 meters of barrel spring.
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Jewellery watch: Boucheron, Ajourée Héra:\nAs early as 1885, the first wrist watches for women created by Frédéric Boucheron were true pieces of jewellery echoing delicate embroidery. They interwove incredibly fine lines, hinting at the foliage where children would play. An ode to transparency, they were creations of unparalleled richness and delicacy.
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Jewellery watch: Bulgari, Jumping Hour Retrograde Minutes: The two new releases, Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours and Berries Jumping Hours Retrograde Minutes offer a fascinating horological expression of essential brand values such as freshness, colour, magnificence and an inimitably precious signature. The collection’s trademark spherical motif surrounds and highlights the tourbilllon at 6 o’clock on the first of these two models; and the jumping-hour display appearing at 12 o’clock on the second.
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Jewellery watch: Chanel, Camélia Brodé Dual Time Watch: Camellia motifs hide two dials that enable to keep the time in two time zones. Three symbolisms are combined: the design of the camellia, the romanticism of the “you and me” style and the mystery of a secret watch. Full paved with brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of 11.83cts, the original creation embodies the quintessence of femininity, as a High Jewelry piece.
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Artistic Crafts watch: BOVET 1822, Fleurier Tourbillon Amadéo: Among the many new releases unveiled at the Salon BOVET 2013, the Fleurier Amadeo 7-day Skeleton Tourbillon is the first skeletonised Tourbillon among Fleurier collection. This timepiece manufactured by Dimier 1738, Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale, is a new anthem to the decorative arts. The use of three-quarter plates allows a great deal of light to pour through the tourbillon carriage.
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Artistic Crafts watch: Chanel, Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé: The dial’s design is produced with an embroidery technique called 'needlework painting' (peinture à l'aiguille), using threads of different colours (not with multi-colored threads). The embroidery technique produces different shades of colour in the camellia design, created on black fabric. This is the first time CHANEL uses embroidery know-how in a watch. Limited to only 18 pieces, each watch is made of 18K white gold case set with 562 brilliant-cut diamonds (~3.07 carats)
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Artistic Crafts watch: Hermès, Arceau H Cube: There are some materials whose striking simplicity represents a rich source of inspiration for craftsmen. One of these is straw. Used in miniature marquetry, it adorns the dial of the Arceau watch with an iconic motif in bright colours. The geometry is emphasised by a white gold case featuring a diameter of 41 mm and asymmetrical attachments, is powered by an H1837 Manufacture movement that can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.
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Sports watch: Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Offshore Diver: Rugged and resistant to the pressure sustained at depths of down to 300 metres, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver maximises the main technical characteristics of instruments intended for use in underwater activities, in order to guarantee users unfailing reliability at all times.
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Sports watch: Habring2, Doppel 3:\nThe ultimate achievement for the young brand and therefore the highlight of 2012 was winning the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the international Watch Oscars, in the "sports watch" category. The Doppel 3 is a step further than its immediate predecessors with regard to technology and design. \n
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Sports watch: Tudor, Pelagos:\nWaterproof to a depth of 500 metres (1640 feet), this superlative watch has a case with a diameter of 42 mm. Made entirely of titanium and completely satin-finished – resulting in a special sheen and a rugged look – it is an aesthetic expression of the power of this deep-sea instrument.
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"Petite Aiguille" watch: Baume & Mercier, Complete calendar:\nThese Clifton timepieces, whose charisma and overall balance find their ideal expression in urban landscapes, display the hour, minutes and seconds thanks to a small seconds hand and a date display in an aperture. Adorned with a steel case measuring 41 mm in diameter, these watches are mounted on an alligator strap or metal bracelet.
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"Petite Aiguille" watch: Speake-Marin, SPIRIT MKII\nThe Spirit Mark 2’s three-dimensional, one-piece dial features refined numerals and hour markers in white Super-LumiNova that contrasts superbly against the light-absorbing matte black. The resulting indications are eminently legible and present a fresh, clean sophistication.
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"Petite Aiguille" watch: Zenith, Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aéronef Type 20 GMT\nThe French term “montre d’aéronef” (onboard watch) is an apt name for these instruments specially developed for aviation, a field in which the conditions of use were considerably more demanding than elsewhere and severely tested the mechanisms. The latter had to withstand sudden fluctuations in temperature, magnetic fields given off by the engines and the other flight instruments, occasionally violent vibrations, humidity, as well as changes in atmospheric pressure.