By Lubna Hamdan
Suit etiquette from Dubai-based tailoring house Knights & Lords
1. Tip: In a single-breasted twobutton suit, always
fasten the top button and leave the lower button undone.
Reason: In the 1900s, King Edward VII
was a fairly healthy man, and was not able to button up his lower suit button
due to his physique. Everyone around him did the same out of respect, as not to
make him feel inferior. Since then, it remains an unsaid rule for every man
sporting a two-button single-breasted suit.
2. Tip: Always unbutton your suit coat when you sit
down, unless it is a double-breasted suit.
Reason: A double-breasted suit has
enough buttons done up to give the coat support when you sit down. In a single-breasted
coat, if you sit down without unbuttoning your coat, you run the risk of
ruining its form and having it look sloppy. According to Pawan Ishwar, in the
gentleman's world, this is equivalent to dropping your jacket on the floor and
stepping on it.
3. Tip: The front length of your trousers should
slightly touch the top of your shoes. The back length of your trousers should
reach the middle of the backside of your shoes.
Reason: A welltailored trouser should
be the right length to avoid an extreme ripple in the front, as that looks
untidy. Also, the length should not be too short as not to show your socks. The
trick here is to have the bottom done at an angle so it has only one crease in
the front. This way, your trousers will look smooth and straight in the front
and will not show your socks when you walk.
4. Tip: Always choose a proper peak collar when
getting a double-breasted suit.
Reason: The double-breasted suit
originated from England and is until today worn by many English Royals and heads
of state. The reason for this is that it gives off the appearance and
impression of power, according to Pawan. So to follow tradition, a double-breasted
suit should be worn with a peak lapel.
5. Tip: The bottom of your tie should slightly touch
the top of your belt.
Reason: Oscar Wilde once said that a
well tied tie is the first serious step in life. Thus, the length of your tie
should not be too long as to cover your belt, neither be so short that it makes
you appear disproportionate.
6. Tip: The ends of your collar should not show from
your suit jacket.
Reason: The collar of your shirt
should be broad and wide enough so that the collar points do not pop out from
the lapel of your suit jacket. According to Ashish Ishwar, “Gentleman would
immediately see how sloppy this can make you look if it’s not taken care of.”
7. Tip: Never match your tie and pocket square.
Reason: “If you match your tie and
pocket square, it tells others that you did not take enough time to dress,”
stated Ashish. Thought the two are not supposed to match, they should belong to
the same family of colours.
8. Tip: Your belt and shoes should always match.
Reason: It’s a timeless rule that your
belt and shoes should always be the same colour. As they are placed in a
symmetrical order, having them in the same colour would make your outfit seem
harmonious and more pleasing to the eye.
9. Tip: Your shirt sleeves should always show from your
Reason: Make sure at least 1cm of your
shirt sleeves show from your suit coat. It is one of the first signs of a well-tailored
10. Tip: Lastly and most importantly, the Ishwar
brothers advise: “Remember that first and foremost, we are gentlemen! When
wearing a suit, always wear the attributes of being a gentleman, as being a
gentleman never goes out of style.”
ammm...i think an important tip is missing...a gentleman should always know his size and never wear belts. a bespoke suit should not allow for belts...just saying
Thanks a lot. Very informative. Would be great if add and mention the color of suite the person wear and its relations to his character. Like black, represent what character, etc... Thanks.