Pure inspiration

As orange smoke drifts lazily across the calm surface of the Arabian Gulf, the cool blue horizon line shatters into hundred angular pieces. Rolling through the calm morning air like a tsunami, the urgent chanting of the crew voices roll through the calm morning air like a tsunami.

Sheets crack, sails blossom and with the acceleration of thoroughbred mares, the 100 dhows in the 18th running of the Sir Bu Naair leave behind the small island’s shores.

The sheer beauty of this traditional dhow race is unsurpassed by any modern sailing event and, as the fleet glides gracefully forward, spectators are transported back in time.

Being the largest ‘single class’ sailing race on the calendar, anywhere in the world, only adds to the sensation that one is witnessing something epic.

Of the 300+ events the Mina Seyahi DIMC runs each year, the Sir Bu Naair Traditional Dhow race must represent the jewel in the crown. Treasured not only for its valuable prize fund, the race itself is steeped in an equally rich history.

The first Sir Bu Naair Island race was held in 1991 under the patronage of HH Sheikh Hamdan Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Deputy Ruler of Dubai, whose aim was to revive the traditions of the pearl traders.

Whilst ivory towers of soulless financial institutions have changed the city’s skyline, it was the local people, the sea, pearls and dhows that the Sheikh recognised would bring the heritage of the nation to life in a unique way.

For centuries the ancient pearling industry provided one of the few incomes for inhabitants of the Gulf shores. While other countries developed commerce from an agricultural base, this was not possible in the barren deserts.

So, a number of the nomadic families settled on the coast to ‘farm’ the sea. Discovering the pearls in the warm shallow waters provided valuable currency with which to barter, a local industry was born.

Gathering the pearls didn’t come without its dangers however, the crews were required to venture to distant shores to find high quality oyster beds. The divers had the most dangerous of roles, plummeting to lung bursting depths of around 40 meters, with no supplementary breathing equipment.

As India became increasingly prosperous in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the demand for pearls grew and what started as small pockets of endeavour, became an established industry in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

Pearling offered considerable wealth if one was fortunate enough to be on a boat that discovered a top quality pearl or two.At the end of each pearl diving season on the way home from India, East Africa and Arabia, Dubai’s dhows would converge on Sir Bu Naair island for the crew to rest. The skippers would then use the opportunity to clean and arrange precious cargo, ready for trading on their arrival back in Dubai.

On an agreed day the dhows would leave Sir Bu Naair en masse, on a journey know as ‘Al Qaffal’ – the finish. It is this occasion that the Sir Bu Naair Traditional Dhow Race celebrates and recreates.

Today however, as the dhows breeze along at seven knots, they are accompanied by a flotilla of around 200 motorised craft and helicopters circle overhead – beaming a live feed back to the TV screens of those not fortunate to be among the 5,000 people along for the ride. The spectacular scene actually resembles a cross between the Armada sailing forth, the evacuation of Dunkirk and scenes from the movie Troy.

Surrounded by a forest of masts, wrapped in a blanket of sails and engulfed in a wall of noise, the experience is a full frontal assault. Each dhow’s ‘Sardal’, shouts instruction and leads the crew in the chanting of traditional sea songs.

These rhythmic mantras play an important role in moving the crew as one and binding together the coastal communities.

Sultan Saeed Hareb, owner of several racing dhows explains. “Our forefathers travelled in those days without any entertainment, their only pastime was the songs they sang. Theses songs have come down from our ancestors.”

The revival of Al Qaffal is essential for survival of many traditions and sailing techniques that were on the very brink of being lost.

“The younger generation is actively searching for newer ways to preserve the tradition of dhow-building and racing, yet using modern equipment,” says Saeed Hareb, the managing director of DIMC, the body that oversees the traditional dhow races.

“The first races in 1986 involved a few dhows that had survived from the old days,” says Saeed Hareb.

“But from then on, we have tried to encourage owners to improve the standard of the dhows without affecting the basic design used by our forefathers. At first, it was the older generation that participated but now, more and more young people are taking part in this traditional race, keeping the heritage we have alive.”

Ibrahim Rashid Al Tayer, a veteran of Sir Bu Naair race explains how this happens, “I have been taking part in this race the past eighteen years,” says. “We teach the younger generation and is not unusual to find four generations of a family racing a single dhow – it’s a true family affair.”

Going into more detail in how a dhow sails, Al Tayer continues. “We show new comers how to tie the boom; this has to be tied very tight or the sail will give way. Then, after the boom, they are shown how to hoist the sail. This needs precision and strength as it is very heavy. From the gub (top of the mast), two ropes come down to the front of the boat while another two are tied on either side; port and starboard. Hoisting the sail, while keeping the craft steady, is a skill in itself. It’s easy and fun to learn though.”

As the fleet reaches open water, the early lead is contested by three or four craft. But after taking an early gybe to the gate at Moon Island, the Al Zeer dhow, skippered by Mohammed Rashid Bin Shaheen opens up a solid lead.Leaping aboard our RIB from the dhow’s support craft, Mohammed’s older brother Khalifa provides us with an insight into the family team.

“You know, 99 percent of the craft in this race come from families involved in the sea – whether fishing or trading. My family however came from the desert, we are Bedouin,” he says proudly. “Everybody says we cannot cope in the sea, but we have been on the podium for eight years.”

As the leading dhow accelerates up to a stunning 15 knots on a downwind run, I ask Khalifa if he wouldn’t rather be aboard – rather than nervously sailing each inch of the 49 mile course vicariously.

“The 60 foot dhow needs the crew from both of our 32 foot boats,” he smiles. “I am from the desert, but already I know that one ship cannot have two captains!”

As the Al Zeer dhow makes steady progress toward the finish at the Mina Seyahi, Sid Bensalah, Sport Director at DIMC comments on how the 2008 running of the Sir Bu Naair is making good time. “Today’s race will take around five hours for the front runners,” he says, “but one should remember it was not so quick for the pearl traders. The older dhows were heavier and loaded with provisions and cargo.”

A comfortable night spent luxuriating on Sheikh Hamdan Bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s 44 meter superyacht, brought into stark relief how different the life of a pearl trader was. Living on a staple diet of rice, fish fried in salt and pepper, and dates, they ate sparingly from provisions replenished occasionally in foreign ports.

For water the crew relied on the stock they carried with them in wooden barrels and would boil it to make a traditional ‘shaai’ – Arabic tea. The crew would sleep on deck in any space they could find, making themselves as comfortable as possible on coils of rope.

There’s no time to sleep in today’s race however, and Mohammed prepared for the final tack, under the looming towers of JBR. With a prize pool of ten million dirhams at stake, it is a tense moment.

In the light coastal winds, the boat stalls momentarily as the foresail is lowered. It seems to take an age for the spar transfer, the sail to be hoisted and the boat to get moving again. Mohammed however skilfully maintains his half kilometre lead and as the chequers drop the crew explodes into rapturous celebration.

As hugs and congratulations are exchanged, attention turns to those still in the chase. Incredibly, after a 49 mile charge across open seas, the battle for the next five positions literally goes down to the wire.

After witnessing one of the most spectacular sailing events in the world, and learnt so much about local culture in the process, one has to tip their hat to Sheikh Hamdan Bin Rashid Al Maktoum.

His highness’s vision to preserve custom, educate a younger generation, share his nation’s heritage with others, and wrap it all in an entertaining spectacle is an incredible success. The curtain may have been drawn on the 2008 Sir Bu Naair race, but the traditions of the local pearl traders still shines brightly.