Malaysian magic

The colourful streets of historical Malacca effortlessly define Malaysia: multi-culturalism. The city’s many ‘tri-carts’ (modern rickshaws) bump shoulder to shoulder with a plethora of different coloured faces, and it’s not uncommon to see a street jam-packed with not only mosques, as Muslim Malaysia is known for, but also Buddhist and Hindu temples.

Malaysia as a whole, too, exemplifies tolerance. Malays make up about 57% of the population, with Chinese, Indians and other ethnic groups constituting the rest. And on the surface, at least, everyone seems to get on. The communities coexist in relative harmony, although there is little racial interaction.

You’ll find, too, that the Malaysian population is incredibly well-mannered. So if you want highs and lows, and dirt and danger, then you won’t find it here, but what you will witness is the many beguiling vestiges of former UK, Portuguese and Dutch colonisation; and the deep-rooted effects of mass Chinese and Indian migration.

It’s everywhere. It’s in the buildings, the stunning cuisine and the shops – but most of all it’s in the people. An inbuilt tolerance. A general willingness to please.

Another standout feature of this small country is its varied topography. Consisting of two regions separated by some 640 miles of the South China Sea, Malaysia is a federation of 13 states and three federal territories. Across the country, you’ll find everything from dense rainforests, to cool mountains, and powder-perfect beaches fringed with palm trees.

Malaysia is close to the equator, so warm weather is guaranteed. However, like most Southeastern Asia countries, Malaysia’s sun-shining days can be interrupted by the Monsoon season from November and February every year.

Majestic Malacca

The centre of a 15th-century sultanate founded by a Sumatran prince, the city of Malacca is considered to be a wellspring of Malay culture and customs. What’s more, the city was awarded Unesco World Heritage status earlier last year because its 500 year trading history with the West has lent it a unique multicultural townscape “without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia”

Charming colonial touches abound in the Majestic Malacca hotel; the architectural style of this building mirrors Malacca’s historically rich past, with influences from the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British and the Peranakan cultures reflected in the leather furniture, porcelain flooring and antique prints lining the walls.

Fittingly for its multicultural roots, this 1920s mansion was first home to a Chinese entrepreneur, who used the house for entertaining friends, hence the Chinese slogan above the hotel’s name, which translates as “happiness is drunkenness.”

The 54-room hotel is largely based in a second modern building behind the mansion, but the décor of the outbuilding is kept perfectly in tune with mansion itself.

The rooms themselves are a very classy affair. Every room features a luxury four-poster bed finished in rich teak, plus a matching silk-upholstered chaise-longue for gazing out over the river through the large windows; while the unique open-plan bathroom features an over-sized tub and rain shower.

The modest size of this boutique hotel, combined with its opulence, means the place has the feel of a stately home that belongs to a friend. The service is impeccable, particularly in the hotel’s restaurant, The Mansion. The immaculately dressed staff are reminiscent of an olde worlde English butler era (think of Remains of the Day and you won’t be far off).

This colonial-style, understated eatery offers a surprisingly international modern selection of fine dining dishes. For example, I sample the smoked Barary duck, homemade cream of mushroom soup, plus the oven roasted crusted Australian ribeye steak with porcini mash and asparagus pesto – all of the dishes are exquisite as well as being reasonably priced, at around US$40 for four courses.

However, where this place impresses most is in its spa village. YTL Hotels, which runs the Majestic Malacca, is well known for its top notch spas across the world, and the Malacca spa village is no exception. Founded in 2008, the hotel’s spa is the world’s first to base its therapies on the healing heritage of the Baba-Nyonya – a unique combination of Chinese and Malay influences.

Inspired by the elaborate and colourful 12-day Paranakan Wedding Ceremony, the pre-treatment experience includes a soothing hair care ritual, with washing and combing of the hair. The village’s therapies are moulded around a person’s cool or warm energies and various combinations of age-old traditional remedies are designed to cleanse, and replenish, both physically and mentally.

Because my questionnaire designated me as having ‘warm’ energy this meant I benefited most from the Shiok-Shiok Sejuk Experience (Cooling). The signature three hour treatment consists of the yoghurt-guava leaves body scrub, egg rolling body therapy, hair mask and bird’s nest facial with star fruit mask. My treatment is thoroughly professional throughout and literally leaves me in a relaxed semi-trance, the mark of a truly great spa.

Location

The Majestic Malacca is across the road from the Melaka River at 188 Jalan Bunga Raya, Melaka, Malaysia (00 606 289 8000; majesticmalacca.com). The Majestic offers complimentary walking tours past many of the city’s historical landmarks.

These include the Dutch Stadhuys (governor’s residence) and the ruins of the Portuguese A’ Famosa fort, as well as the antiques markets of Jonkers Street. In addition, you see the mosques, Buddhist and Hindu temples, and churches of the many religions to make Melaka their home.

CameronHighlandsResort

In the heart of Malaysia’s cool hill country and surrounded by dramatic tea plantations, Cameron Highlands Resort really is a hotel with a difference. At 1,500m above sea level, this is the highest part of Peninsular Malaysia – ideal for escaping the heat and humidity of the coastal plains. It also has the perfect conditions for growing both tea and strawberries, which is why the area was a popular spot with British expats in the 19th century, during colonial days.

The Cameron Highlands Resort’s impressive architecture is sympathetic to the colonial era, and its grand façade evokes all the splendour, romance and nostalgia of the age.

There are 56 rooms: 48 deluxe suites and eight suites. The rooms are airy, simply decorated and very cool. You’ll feel like an intrepid 19th century traveller here as you sip a drink in the resort’s elegant Highland bar, indulge in some ‘tea poetry’ at the well appointed mini-library or partake of the spectacular High Tea deal in Jim Thompson’s Tea Room.

There’s also plenty do outside the hotel. The resort offers a range of jungle tours that allow you to go deep into the nearby 200 million-year-old rainforest with an expert guide. Malaysia has some of the world’s most diversified plant life in its forests, more so than the Amazon or Africa, and it’s a special, invigorating experience to see it close up.

The expert guide will take you through and explain the origins and livelihoods of hundreds of fauna: including indigenous wild orchids, vibrant rhododendrons, pitcher and lipstick plants. You’ll also see a huge range of insects and fungi, some of which are unique to this forest. Oh, and mind the tarantula nests. But it’s okay, the guide says, because tarantulas like to sleep during the day!There’s a range of more difficult mountain climbs on offer, plus a tour of the local BOH tea plantation, followed by an optional delightful private picnic served in the heart of the tea fields by your very own butler. For golf lovers, the resort can arrange access to the only course in the Highlands, opposite the hotel.

As always, because this is a YTL resort, the best treat lies in the resort’s award winning spa. The treatments at Spa Village Cameron Highlands feature healing therapies based on produce from the jungles and ancient tea rituals. Before every treatment each guest enjoys a signature tea bath to prepare the mind and body. Our favourite is the Fresh Strawberry Escapade package, which includes a strawberry tea bath, strawberry body polish and a strawberry aroma massage.

Location

Tanah Rata, the local administrative capital, is 10 minutes’ drive from the hotel. Even closer is Brinchang, which has plenty of little shops and cheap local restaurants.

The hotel stands just above the main road from Brinchang, with vast views over a golf course and the misty hills beyond. The 220km drive from Kuala Lumpur (there is no convenient airport) takes three to four hours.

Cameron Highlands Resort, 39000 Tanah Rata Cameron Highlands, Pahang Darul Makmur, Malaysia (00 605 491 1100; cameronhighlandsresort.com)

Pangkor Laut Resort

The small private island of Pangkor Laut, which lies in emerald waters off the west coast of Malaysia, is home to the exclusive Pangkor Laut Resort. The rocky headlands and sweeping bays combine to create one of the most natural and luxurious resorts in the country. As the resort’s slogan goes, ‘One island. One resort’.

And it really is. Only 18 per cent of the island is given over to the resort itself and the rest is free jungle for you to roam around.

Most people possess a similar vision of island paradise – powder perfect beaches, palm trees, tropical fish, birds and beautiful blue sea. Pangkor Laut is the postcard image realised. And, as such, this 148-villa resort is perfect for both honeymooners and travellers looking to rest their mind. Nothing much happens here. And l like it that way.

The rooms themselves are simple and peaceful, with more than a hint of Eastern exoticism. What’s more, the resort offers a wide choice of different accommodations.

Hill Villas are perched dramatically at the top of the hill with superb views; Garden Villas are set among the exotic tropical gardens; while Sea Villas are the most popular and are located on stilts over the water. There is also a selection of Spa Villas, which connect directly to the resort’s full-service Spa Village, a seaside collection of landscaped pavilions where you can select a range of treatments developed from Malay, Chinese and Indian natural beauty and health secrets.

Dining options here, too, are plentiful and there’s enough outlets to stave off any boredom. The al fresco-style Feast Village offers top grade international cuisine, the Straits restaurant offers fine dining Asian-style with stunning sea views. Fisherman’s Cove is the resort’s outdoor fish eatery, while Unclie Lims offers Nyonya specialties.

My personal favourite is Chapman’s Bar, which overlooks Emerald Bay. Here you can eat under the stars to the sounds of the waves lapping and birds singing.

It’s hard to not to just lie prostrate and dream in this paradise island, but should you manage to rouse yourself. The resort offers a range of off and on-island activities, such as chartered cruises, sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, jungle trekking and golf.

Location

The island can be reached by a three hour road transfer from Kuala Lumpur or Penang to Lumut jetty. Alternatively, it is a one hour drive from Ipoh, followed by a 45 minute ferry ride (exclusive to Pangkor Laut guests). You can also fly from Kuala Lumpur to Pangkor Island, which is just a 40 minute boat ride from Pangkor Laut.

Pangkor Laut Resort, Pangkor Laut Island, Malaysia (05/699-1100; pangkorlautresort.com)

Special offers

Pay for six nights and get one extra night free (Applies to Garden Villas) Valid for stays 01 Apr 09 – 30 Nov 09 (except August).

Or book before 31 Mar 09 and receive a free upgrade from Garden to Hill Villa (Valid for nights in May, Jun and Nov – 19 Dec 09).