Audacious, three-dimensional horological machines are at the heart of playful, grail-watch creators MB&F.
Their highly-limited inventions (to call them wristwatches seems almost to do them a disservice) have become a signifier of accomplishment amongst the watchmaking cognoscenti. Want to tell everyone you’re rich? Buy a Rolex. Want the one per cent to give you a knowing nod? Head to MB&F.
For female high achievers (and their wealthy spouses) one frustration remained in this much loved independent brand: the outsize watches were simply too large for all but the most generously proportioned female wrist. No longer. Enter the Legacy Machine FlyingT, encased in a white-gold, round 38.5mm case. It comes in a black lacquer, pavé diamond, or baguette diamond version.
Respecting MB&F’s existing codes, the watch is gloriously three-dimensional with a high domed sapphire crystal. In a poetic nod to the wearer, the hours and minutes are displayed on a 50° vertically titled dial angled towards her, lending the time-telling process a personal air. Discretion may not be a top priority for the wearer, however, for despite its delicate elegance, this is a timepiece that demands attention.
MB&F’s mechanical artistry is shown thanks to a 3D engine with automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house, and a stunning central flying 60-second tourbillon. The watch boasts a power reserve of 100 hours; an undeniably serious piece of artistic horology to reflect the uniqueness of its wearer.
“The last thing I wanted to do,” says the brand’s founder, Dubai-based entrepreneur Maximilian Büsser, “was to take a masculine timepiece, resize it, put a different colour on it and call it a ladies’ watch. I wanted LM FlyingT to possess the epitome of femininity as reflected by the women in my life, particularly my mother. It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality. The column-like structure of the flying tourbillon was very important to me as I felt very strongly that women form the pillar of humanity. At the same time, there is another layer of meaning coming in from the sun-shaped rotor, which incorporates the element of life-giving, a source of sustenance which we gravitate towards and around.”
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