Victor Gastou sits comfortably, a velvet pouch tied with a red ribbon resting in his hands. Inside lies a selection of men’s rings, together embodying hundreds of years of history. These rings are just a glimpse into his father Yves Gastou’s collection of over 1,000 rings that tell stories of a lifelong treasure hunt.
The collection, amassed over 40 years by the late gallerist and art dealer Yves Gastou, represents more than just jewellery. It’s a chronicle of craftsmanship, history, and passion that spans continents and centuries. “Yes, this story is about rings, but also passion,” Victor Gastou said in an exclusive interview with Arabian Business.
First unveiled in Paris in 2018, the collection has found a temporary home in Dubai, marking another milestone in its global journey. The exhibition is organised into five themes that reflected Yves’ personal aesthetic: History, Gothic, Christian Mysticism, Vanitas, and Eclecticism.
Among the most intriguing pieces are 17th-century Venetian Doge rings, featuring hidden compartments once used to conceal poison – a reminder of historical intrigue and power plays but perhaps more fascinating are the stories of how these pieces were discovered.
An eye for overlooked treasures
“There is one ring that my father wore every day,” Victor recalled, pointing to a skull design with a diamond in its mouth. “He found it at a flea market for less than EUR100 because people didn’t know what they had. When he tested the stone, he discovered it was a black diamond.” This piece, now one of the collection’s most iconic items, exemplifies Yves’ extraordinary eye for overlooked treasures.
The collection’s true value lies not in the materials used but in the stories each piece tells. While some rings feature precious metals and rare stones, others were acquired for as little as EUR10-15, chosen purely for their artistic merit or historical significance.
“Usually people collect from the top, looking only at the best pieces,” Victor explained. “But in this collection, there are also seemingly ordinary pieces that are interesting because of their sculpture or scene. That’s what makes this collection very different.”
Victor’s own journey with rings began reluctantly. “As a teenager, I didn’t want to wear these in front of my friends,” he said with a smile. “But I started with just one ring, then added a second, then a third.” Today, he wears multiple rings, including one bearing an intricate Vatican stamp – a piece that connects to one of his earliest memories of his father’s collection.
He recounts how Yves acquired a significant portion of his religious rings following Vatican II, when the Catholic Church moved away from ornate golden rings in favour of more humble designs. “Nobody wanted them anymore,” Victor explained. “That’s when my father had the opportunity to buy the most incredible pieces from Millario dits Meller, the official maker of such rings.”
For Victor, rings represent more than mere adornment. “The hand is what makes the difference between animals and man,” he said. “What civilisation is now is because of the ability to build, to use tools.” He describes wearing rings as a sensual experience, detailing how they become part of one’s daily ritual and personal identity.
For aspiring collectors, Victor’s advice is simple but profound: “Dare. At the beginning it’s not easy and you might make some mistakes which is normal but you have to dare to buy. You will learn, you will encounter people, go see some passionate professionals. Ask questions.”
For the next few months, the collection will be exhibited at the L’ÉCOLE Middle East School of Jewelry Arts in Dubai, where appreciation for both traditional craftsmanship and contemporary luxury runs deep.
The exhibition in Dubai offers visitors a rare glimpse into the collection, where each ring tells its own story of discovery, craftsmanship, and the passionate eye that recognised its value. It stands as a testament to Yves Gastou’s legacy and his son’s dedication to sharing these treasures with the world.
‘The collection does not belong to me or my sister anymore’
What’s next on Victor’s collecting wishlist? With a gleam in his eye, he said “I’m searching everyday but I don’t know what I might find.”
Gastou hints at ongoing discussions to bring the collection to the US, a move he believes will create a significant impact due to the “huge part of the collection made up of biker rings.”
Looking ahead, he playfully jokes about the collection expanding to have its own life beyond the hands of the Gastou family. “It’s funny because the collection does not belong to me or my sister anymore, she [the collection] is beginning to have her own life, travelling by herself – I just follow.”
‘Men’s Rings, Yves Gastou Collection’ exhibition, at L’ÉCOLE Middle East, School of Jewelry Arts, Dubai Design District (d3). Until April 26, 2025. To visit register here.
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