Cheddar, brie and parmesan. For most diners and even some chefs these three cheeses are the most prominent and well known. But the world of cheese stretches far beyond this, with categories ranging from fresh, semi-soft, semi-aged and blue vein varieties.
A pecorino is a pecorino, but if you went to The Marches it may be aged in fresh walnut leaves, in Sicily it may be matured under caves and in Madrid under hay.
Despite these main categories each cheese can be made in a multitude of ways and from a number of sources, like sheep, cow, buffalo or goat. Looking at Italian cheeses in particular, Nunzio Rossi, food and dairy technologist for Middle East Trading – a supplier of high-end Italian produce – says there are more than 1000 different Italian cheeses sourced from the length and breadth of the country.
“There is not a great cheese culture over here apart from people knowing about well-known varieties like mozzarella and parmesan, so we are trying to propose a wide range of cheeses in order to educate the chefs and the diners,” says Rossi.
Currently working on producing a handbook for restaurant staff, Rossi says it will inform chefs about the production process including where the cheeses are sourced from, and most importantly how it should be stored, presented and cut.
“It will contain three different levels, from basic information all the way up to information for a master cheese maker,” he adds.
With Middle East Trading offering cheeses that range from AED50-AED350 (US $14-$95) per kg, at the top end some dairy farmers will produce only 10-15 wheels annually, meaning allocations are placed years in advance.
Production and maturation
Produced through the coagulation of milk, in order to aid the curdling process bacteria and rennet are used to speed up the separation of the liquids and solids. This can be done by using a mesophilic starter, in particular used for cheeses like cheddar and gouda, or by using termophilic starter cultures, which are heat-loving bacteria. Ideally, this is used for some Italian cheeses.
From region to region though the types of cheeses can vary, with the north of Italy known for its mature cheese, while the south produces more fresh and semi-aged cheeses. Additionally, the flavours change depending on the characteristics of the area, whether near the Alps or in the countryside.
“A pecorino is a pecorino, but if you went to The Marches it may be aged in fresh walnut leaves, in Sicily it may be matured under caves and in Madrid under hay, so this will change the flavour of it,” says Rossi.
Selling around AED40,000-AED50,000 ($11,000-$13,600) of cheese a month, compared to AED5000 ($1360) four years ago, Middle East Trading has noted a sharp increase in sales.
At Andiamo! at the Grand Hyatt Dubai for example, chef Giuseppe Gorgolione, sous chef at the Italian restaurant, offers around 10-12 different cheeses at any one time as part of its antipasti buffet.
Sourcing cheeses from across Italy, chef Giuseppe says at the beginning not a lot of people knew about the various Italian cheeses on offer, but education is improving.
“People now comment on which cheeses they like, so it helps us when we re-order them from our suppliers. There are still some guests though that have no knowledge of cheeses beyond parmesan and mozzarella. So it is up to us to assist the diners in whatever way we can,” comments chef Giuseppe.
Undertaking cheese tastings and training sessions with his staff, he says it is important for them to know where the cheese is from, the type of milk used and the production process. The restaurant also has a map of the different provinces so they know where it is produced – something that has proved popular with guests.
Maximising your cheese potential
“Cheese is very difficult to sell. When you serve three types of cheese at the end of the day to most people it is just three pieces of cheese, so you have to offer more,” warns Rossi.
Serving cheese with dried fruits, pickles and jellies, condiments like chutneys and mustards are also ideal, with Andiamo! using a range of chutneys like tropea onion, quince apple and green tomato.
“The chutneys go with nearly all the cheeses, and offer a range of complex flavours. We also put our cheeses into our wine bar; Vinoteca, as it is an ideal accompaniment to wine,” suggests chef Giuseppe.
When offering different Italian cheeses though, Rossi says it is vital to not only present it in the right way, but also to store and cut the cheese correctly, as this can dramatically alter the flavour.
“You may have a great piece of cheese, but the difficult part is its conservation after it has been cut. Once it has had contact with the air it will not last long, so it has to be stored in the right way,” warns Rossi.
“While cheese platters have been traditionally hard to sell, they are gradually becoming more commonplace. In restaurants it should be promoted as a dish to end the evening. It really tastes of the countryside, which is an amazing experience if you are sat at the top of a skyscraper in the Middle East,” adds Rossi.
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