Every businessman should have a suit that fits. More than a fashion statement, it’s a given work attire. The only problem is, it’s hard to find a ready-made suit that fits in all the right places – that’s why bespoke suits are your best bet. Why?
We sat down with the founder and managing director of Dubai tailoring house Collars & Cuffs, Samrat Amarnani, to get the full lowdown on the trend:
What are bespoke suits?
According to Amarnani, a bespoke suit is customized to fit your personal style and body type through the cut, lining, and pattern. At Collars and Cuffs, the tailors take 30 of your body measurements – including jacket, pants, and sleeves length and shoulder and waist size – to make your suit. From the measurements taken, they also evaluate your body shape (i.e. square or low positioned shoulders) to help hide flaws or enhance strong points.
Beside a great fit, bespoke suits have unlimited customization options that vary from button types to lining colors and pocket designs. The most important option is fabric.
“The look and feel of a suit is largely aided by the type of fabric used. At Collars and Cuffs, we have 2,500 different fabric options, in various different qualities and materials, to choose from. But our most popular options include 100% wool, 100% Cashmere, linen, pure cotton, wool and silk blends, and cashmere and wool blends,” says Amarnani.
How much does it cost to tailor a bespoke suit and what does the cost depend on?
According to Amarnani, the average price range for bespoke suits starts at almost AED 2,000. “We have a price that rivals the most competitive in the industry and it starts from AED 1,950 at the lower end up to AED 20,000+ at the higher end. The main costing factor to take into account when ordering a suit is the type of fabric used,” he says.
What are the steps that go into making a bespoke suit?
There are usually 5 to 6 steps that go into making your bespoke suit. Here are the 6 unique steps at Collars & Cuffs:
Step 1: You choose your fabric.
Step 2: You discussing and determine the suit design with the firm’s tailors through a step-by-step process.
Step 3: You get your measurements taken.
Step 4: You come back for a trial fitting where you try a garment with dummy stitches to give you an idea of how the garment will look on you. You can still make minor changes in the styling at this point.
Step 5: You come back again for a second trial fitting where you try on the garment with the alterations that were done since the first trial, with only a few points on the jacket left unfinished.
Step 6: You pick up your new bespoke suit and the brand keeps your pattern for future use.
How long does it take for the process and suit to be made?
While the time defers depending on the tailoring house and complexity of the suit, the entire process at Collars & Cuffs takes 15 days. Amarnani warns that a good suit takes time. He says, “No tailor worth their salt will deliver a top-notch suit within 24 or 48 hours, as is often promised in different parts of the world.”
Does a bespoke suit look, in appearance, different than a ready-made one?
Experts like Amarnani say, “Yes.” A person can tell the difference by the way the suit fits the customer from different factors, like the sleeves, chest, shoulders, lapels, and back. “A poorly tailored suit can look like a ready-to-wear suit, but a ready-to-wear suit can never look like a bespoke suit,” says Amarnani.
What are some special features that a customer can acquire with a bespoke suit?
For a personal touch to your suit, you can opt to get your initials, name, or favorite quote embroidered on the suit. This can be done in your preferred font and color. Other features include lining colors, which Collars & Cuffs has over 100 options of, as well as piping and hand-stitched color options.
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